ISLAND IN NHA TRANG

There are many islands at Nha Trang Bay – Khanh Hoa, Vietnam. However, the most well-known ones are Mieu island, Mun island, Tam island, Tre island and Yen island.

Mieu island: It takes you only about 20 minutes to get to Mieu island (or B?ng Nguyên Island) by motor-boat. You can visit the Th?y Cung Tri Nguyen where many species of marine creatures live or relax youself at the unique beach – Bãi S?i (Pebble Beach). This Th?y Cung is a fossil ship model from which, tourists can enjoy the collection of multiple types of species taken from many regions of Vietnam.

Mun Island (Hòn Mun) is a small island in the Nha Trang Bay complex. You can realize that all the rock fields on the southeast of the island is as black as ebony. That is why the island is called Mun Island. According to research, Mun Island has great ecological diversification with regards to coral reefs. In the island, 340 out of 800 world species of coral reefs have bên found here. From 2001, Mun Island Sea Reservation Zone has been set up, covering a total area of about 160 square kilometers (include many other islands like Tre Island, Mieu Island, Tam Island, Mun Island, Cau Island, etc.). This is the first Sea Reservation Zone to be established in Vietnam.

Tam Island (Hòn T?m) is an attractive ecological tourist site where the original beauty of the landscape is still remained with evergreen tropical forests and long charming sandy beaches. On the back of the mountain is a newly-found attraction – Hang Doi (Grotto of Bats) where lots of bats inhabit. Coming to this island, tourists will have chance to take part in various forms of sport activities like Kayaking, mountain climbing, volleyball on beaches, etc. Especially, from February 2010, tourists can have opportunity to observe Nha Trang Bay from balloons. Nha Trang Bay observed from 150 meters high may have been really different from the one that you see on land.

Tre Island is the largest one in Nha Trang Bay with the area of more than 30 square kilometers. The island is located about 5km to the east of Nha Trang City center, 3,5km to Cau Da Port. Beaches in this island are among the most charming natural beaches in Vietnam. With original vegetaion, mild and temperate climate, Tre Island possesses favorable conditions for developing ecological tourism and sea resort. The island is receiving much investment to develop high quality tourism infrastructure.

Ðao Yen (Yen Island): Local people call any island where the salanganes build their nests Yen Island. Among the 19 islands in Nha Trang Bay, Noi Island and Ngoai Island have the largest number of salanganes. Although beaches in these islands is rather beautiful, they are not exploited for tourism purpose. In stead, they are used for producing and exploiting Y?n Sào (a specialty made from salangane’s nests).

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ISLAND IN NHA TRANG

There are many islands at Nha Trang Bay – Khanh Hoa, Vietnam. However, the most well-known ones are Mieu island, Mun island, Tam island, Tre island and Yen island.

Mieu island: It takes you only about 20 minutes to get to Mieu island (or B?ng Nguyên Island) by motor-boat. You can visit the Th?y Cung Tri Nguyen where many species of marine creatures live or relax youself at the unique beach – Bãi S?i (Pebble Beach). This Th?y Cung is a fossil ship model from which, tourists can enjoy the collection of multiple types of species taken from many regions of Vietnam.

Mun Island (Hòn Mun) is a small island in the Nha Trang Bay complex. You can realize that all the rock fields on the southeast of the island is as black as ebony. That is why the island is called Mun Island. According to research, Mun Island has great ecological diversification with regards to coral reefs. In the island, 340 out of 800 world species of coral reefs have bên found here. From 2001, Mun Island Sea Reservation Zone has been set up, covering a total area of about 160 square kilometers (include many other islands like Tre Island, Mieu Island, Tam Island, Mun Island, Cau Island, etc.). This is the first Sea Reservation Zone to be established in Vietnam.

Tam Island (Hòn T?m) is an attractive ecological tourist site where the original beauty of the landscape is still remained with evergreen tropical forests and long charming sandy beaches. On the back of the mountain is a newly-found attraction – Hang Doi (Grotto of Bats) where lots of bats inhabit. Coming to this island, tourists will have chance to take part in various forms of sport activities like Kayaking, mountain climbing, volleyball on beaches, etc. Especially, from February 2010, tourists can have opportunity to observe Nha Trang Bay from balloons. Nha Trang Bay observed from 150 meters high may have been really different from the one that you see on land.

Tre Island is the largest one in Nha Trang Bay with the area of more than 30 square kilometers. The island is located about 5km to the east of Nha Trang City center, 3,5km to Cau Da Port. Beaches in this island are among the most charming natural beaches in Vietnam. With original vegetaion, mild and temperate climate, Tre Island possesses favorable conditions for developing ecological tourism and sea resort. The island is receiving much investment to develop high quality tourism infrastructure.

Ðao Yen (Yen Island): Local people call any island where the salanganes build their nests Yen Island. Among the 19 islands in Nha Trang Bay, Noi Island and Ngoai Island have the largest number of salanganes. Although beaches in these islands is rather beautiful, they are not exploited for tourism purpose. In stead, they are used for producing and exploiting Y?n Sào (a specialty made from salangane’s nests).

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Carving The Past, Catastrophes The Present

Today we ventured further afield to some more remote sites. Mr Bon drove us along smooth highways which soon turned into bumpy, dusty, crumbling tarmac. As we sat in the tuk tuk we watched everyday life go by. People were hard at work; men were fishing or labouring in the paddy fields, women cooked outside on huge metal pans heated by earth furnaces, children herded cattle. Frequently we passed markets where vendors sold exotic fruits, bottles of water, rattan baskets, multicoloured scarves, wooden furniture, chicken feather dusters in varying lengths and petrol in old Coke and Johnny Walker bottles. Brick villas, freshly painted in white, pastel pink or lemon yellow, whizzed past us and contrasted sharply with the timber houses on stilts and palm leaf bungalows.
A couple of rickety bridges later and we were at Bantray Srei. It was a pretty temple, with delicate and ornate carvings. It reflected attractively in a moat studded with bright pink lotus blossoms. Unfortunately, 5 minutes behind us were the tour buses, and as the deserted carpark filled up, the peaceful temple became a chaotic and immobile press of bodies. I was glad I was not claustrophobic.
Our next stop, Kbal Spean, led us onto a dirt road apparently too extreme for Asian tour groups to attempt. A climb up through the jungle led us to clearings filled with multitudes of butterflies- sulphur yellow, orange, black with white spots, swallowtail, brown with shining blue wing tips. After half an hour we were at Kbal Spean, the River of 1000 Linga. The linga is a phallic symbol which represents Shiva. The first carvings we saw had been created in the riverbed above a waterfall. Following the falls down took us past carvings of monarchs being sheltered under parasols and mischievous-looking crocodiles. A wobbly wooden staircase led us to the foot of the falls. There were more linga carvings and butterflies, which gathered to feed on minerals in the mud.
We climbed back and followed the river, which took us to more linga carvings on the riverbed and further detailed bas reliefs. Shivaites believed that pouring water over the linga sculptures in temples made it holy; I guess the water here must have been extremely spiritually potent!
The final group of bas reliefs were very fine. They depicted the god Vishnu. The site was very tranquil; dragonflies buzzed past, fish swam in the river, a skink dashed through the undergrowth and a gecko loitered behind a sign.
After lunch, we visited the landmine museum. It was started by a man called Aki Ra, who had fought with the Khmer Rouge as a child soldier after his parents were killed, and later fought for the Vietnamese army during their invasions. His story is shared by many others- killing without thought in a struggle to stay alive. Aki Ra's speciality was laying landmines. After the wars were over, the horrific consequences of this weaponry became clear; even in peacetime these hidden traps continue to exert an heavy death toll, with mutilation resulting for many more. Tragically, the group most at risk are children, who often think that mines, grenades and other unexploded ordinance are toys.
Aki Ra turned his expertise to finding and disabling the mines, clearing many thousands. Eventually his efforts gained international support, and he continues to work with teams to clear as much of Cambodia as possible. The landmine museum was an intensely moving experience; the figures of the amount of land still uncleared, and the number of people killed or injured each year were shocking. At an attached school were children who were the victims of mines, saved from a future as beggers by Aki Ra and his wife. Sadly, many will not be so lucky, but the message was positive- individuals can make a difference.
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A TRIP FORWARD INTO THE PAST

John Olsen called and asked if I would like to return to Vietnam to help place a memorial plaque on Hill 362.  This is like a bolt from the sky and I’m momentarily speechless. Finally, I say I will need to discuss it with my wife but I absolutely want to go. There was some talk about this kind of a trip at our last reunion.  A number of us discussed what a good idea it was.

We contacted many different people and tour agencies, trying to find the best combination for what we want.  Our goals are to do a lot of boots on the ground kind of touring, using vehicle transportation as little as possible, as well as to climb up Hill 362 one more time, for a memorial service.  We communicated with ex-pats who live there and many others who have visited recently.  We are getting all kinds of conflicting reports on what to expect from the people and the government.

We finally decide on working with Ngoc. She has outlined a very detailed trip for us.  There are multiple e-mail communications between John and Ngoc which he shares with all of us.   She says that there may be some difficulties about getting us to our hill 362, but she will do the best she can.  The trip may include taking motor scooters from DongHa as far into the jungle as possible and then walking the remainder of the way.

April 25, 2008

I cannot believe it’s time to go already.  I bought several new items to take.  Clothes for hiking in hot weather, some camping supplies, including a hammock to suspend between trees for sleeping. Some packaged food and a fair amount of endurance food such as Cliff Bars and Power Bars.  I borrowed a great back pack from my nephew and a fine stock of Dominican cigars.  None of us know what cigars will be available once we are in country.  I have packed and repacked so many times I don’t know what I should be taking any more.  I am more nervous about this than I was willing to admit.

Our flight to Chu Lai is on a Vietnam Airlines dual prop job and we fly low enough to get good views of the northern delta area around Saigon.  We land at ChuLai without problems and we are the only aircraft on the tarmac.  One of the reasons we wanted to land here is that we guarded this air strip as one of our duties for a while back in ’66.  There is much about ChuLai that seems like home.

Here is where we first meet Ngoc and Thuong.  They are waiting outside of the terminal at ChuLai holding a very large, red banner that reads “Welcome Back”.  We are all excited to meet.  Ngoc is talkative and has a great smile and wants to tell us all her plans.  She is very excited to meet us and can’t wait to get us started on our journey.Thuong seems somewhat aloof.  He does not smile as easily.

About 2 pm we bus out to a remote area to find hill 66 and some other areas.  We get off the bus and trek through back roads and trails. We pass an elementary school and the children inside are practicing an alphabet or numbers or something, in unison.  Soon, they become aware that we are outside and they all come out to see us.  Laughing and nearly all waving the peace sign at us, shouting in English “Hello!  How are you?”

Walking through small vills and hamlets give us a sense of remembrance.  Flashes of time gone by.  Not all of it is bad, but the memories surface with a heightened sense of awareness that comes from having been in a life and death struggle – a lesson that never leaves.  We remember hedge lines of cacti, palm and betel nut trees, walking along the elevated paths between rice paddies, and feeling over exposed and vulnerable.

As we walk from hamlet to hamlet, the word gets passed around about a group of Americans, and many of the villagers try to sneak peeks at us.  The children collect in groups of 5 or 6 and giggle at us.   This is a shy culture.  They have little expectation other than daily needs.  There are few demands on them.  Their civility is so deep, so basic.  It could not exist in the western world.  I can’t help but wonder how they can be so calm, so open, and so polite after 100 years of war.

Dong Ha

We are much farther inland now.  Vietnam is less than 50 miles wide here, near the old DMZ.  Looking out the window of the train as we leave the coastal area and head inland toward the gentle eastern slopes of the Annamese range and the jungle, I get to watch the slow change of vegetation and elevation.  It is an interesting mix of sand, swamp and lush vegetation rising to low mountain jungles.  This is such a beautiful country.  It feels so rich and deep.  It has kept a missing part of my soul for over 40 years.

to be continued…

Published on 11/15/08

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CAVES IN VANG VIENG

A full day excursion was booked in for today. A people mover was hired, with driver, for USD100. The family’s own people mover took the rest of the group. It’s good to see how well this family is getting on together considering the fact that, even though they are related, most of the Australian group had not met the Laotian group before this trip. And as for me – I am getting to know most of both groups for the very first time! Working out who is who is all just too much for an outsider to take in within a day or two…and trying to remember all their names – well, that’s another problem. But I’m slowly coming to terms with it all. A day out like this, experiencing the countryside together should help us all to get to know each other a little better despite the language differences.... READ MORE

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CAMBODIA, CAMBODIA

Our second destination in Phnom Penh is the Royal Palace.  This brings us as close as we will be to the king of Cambodia.  Visiting the Royal Palace is really a visit to a walled compound. The royals’ actual residence is off limits for obvious reasons.  From the outside, it looks very royal in a Khmer kind of way.  The current king is Norodom Sihamoni, 57, who has reigned since 2004.  Previous to this, he was a cultural ambassador to UNESCO, classical dance instructor, and oldest son of King Norodom Sihanouk. That last credential may be slightly more important than the other two.

Kings used to be chosen by Brahmans (wise men) who rated king candidates in ten categories.  Of course, in many cases it did not hurt the candidate’s chances if his father happened to be the current king.  If wise men choosing kings sounds archaic, consider that the US constitution orders pretty much the same procedure.  Voters do not vote for president. They vote their instructions to electoral voters, who vote the will of each state.  The idea was that electors could use their very sound judgment in choosing the president instead of leaving the decision to John Q. Gullible. We have pretty much gutted the system, so presidential candidates appeal to most of us but not necessarily the best of us.

Frankly, I am surprised that Cambodia still has either a Royal Palace or a king.  Start with the fact that the current king’s father, Norodom Sihanouk, abandoned the throne in 1955.  It was two years after the French had granted Cambodia its independence.  He preferred real political power to the safety of a neutered monarchy.  He became prime minister in elections that might not have been free or fair.

Twenty six years later the US was embroiled in the war next-door. Sihanouk figured the US was backing a loser.  He agreed to let the Viet Cong set up permanent training camps on the Cambodian side of the border.  He allowed Chinese arms to be shipped through Cambodia to the Viet Cong. He was in the ring with heavyweights and doing what he could to keep his country from being knocked out.

Cambodian General Lon Nol preferred the South Vietnamese side of the war.  Or maybe he liked the fact that supporting the South Vietnamese meant the US would support him in a coup.  When Sihanouk left town, Lon Nol seized control.  He would lose it five years later.  In the mean time, the exiled Sihanouk worked to get his job back.... READ MORE

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HANOI CAFE CULTURE

In Hanoi, drinking coffee has become a culture. And if you visit this bustling and antique city, you should check out the street pavement coffee shop instead of drinking the same old same old coffee at your hotel or big restaurant to have an authentic taste of Hanoi coffee.

For many Hanoians, the most important factor of a café is not its luxuriousness but the quality of the product. Old people love cafés which have been around a long time, located on old streets or inside deep alleys. Office workers like cafes with romantic and quiet styles like those in Pho Co Quarter. Young people prefer the noisy and busy atmosphere of modern and luxury or pavement cafés.

There are so many famous coffee shops in Hanoi, like Nang café (6 Hang Bac), Nhan (39D1 Hang Hanh), Quat (Quan Thanh), Quynh (Bat Dan) to Giang (Hang Gai  Street) and Lam (60, 91 Nguyen Huu Huan)… Chairs are small, literally child-sized, and are sometimes made of blue plastic or painted wood. The tables are covered with glasses of ca phe den (black coffee) or ca phe sua da (iced coffee), which come with their own individual drip top. Not only just for connoisseurs, these places are idea for having gossip, meeting old friends, talking to pass  time of day, stealing precious moments for romantics.

* * *

A good example of the authentic Hanoi cafés is Hang Hanh, an atmospheric slender street veering off the city’s central Hoan Kiem Lake. In the afternoon, one may find himself inexplicably drawn to its’ wall-to-wall cafés which unfold below the shady boughs of leafy trees. Here, the annoying young and cool Vietnamese often sit and watch the world in front of their eyes. In late afternoon, with the last rays of sunshine, the place starts to buzz. At weekends, it is positively heaving with dating couples or gangs of youths desiring to be couples.

The next stop is Lam café – the perfect refuge for artists, poets and thespians to refresh their minds for creativeness. Situated on a shaded street, it will bring you the relaxed moments by the simple but artistically-decorated bamboo furniture, colorful framed oil paintings on the wall, ceiling fans as well as wooden table with a lot of tiny china teapots.

Down in a quiet side street, Quynh cafe‘s unassuming entrance is marked by a simple red lantern and ornate ironwork doors. Stepping inside, you not only see the bamboo furniture on tiled floor but also the tiny plants adorn wooden shuttered windows. Looking on damp-streaked walls, you may surprise with wooden arrows and trumpets, farming implements and ancient hunting pistols. Breathing the cool air from the antiquated table-fan, wallowing in soft French background music, you will desire to stay longer…

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